cleaning K&N filter...

next up, cleaning my K&N filter....

first, i started to notice some petrol from my exhaust fume... this usually means my AFR mixture is rich... so, i checked my air filter whether its dirty or not... it is dark in color adi... further investigation shows that i've not been waching my air filter for a few months already....

previously, CK exhaust quoted me RM15 to wash the K&N air filter... since its a simply work, why not DIY??... in long term can save up some money as well...





instructions are at the back... looks simple...



first 2 step (cleaning the filter element with water and K&N detergent) i forgot to snap photo... so, here is the reoiling part....



after reoiling, reinstall back the filter...



done~!!!

cooling coil leaking...

that day my car aircond suddently not cold jor... so i suspect it ran out of gas lo... so i went nearby aircond shop ask them refill....



after awhile, the foreman said he suspect something wrong... might not be jz ran out of gas... so they dived under my glove box and removed this...



shit~!!... cooling coil leaking jor....

the foreman said cannot patch coz the hole too big... afraid might leak again after a few days.... so, no choice have to replace with new one lo...



DENSO cooling coil... RM350 fly...

accident....

jz a week after completing my smoked headlamp, shit happens...







rear ended a myvi after the traffic lights... coz of brake failure... no response even after i depress the brake pedal hard....

estimated repair cost for both car exceed RM1k....




so much have to pay, i student nia, no money.... so, claim insurance lo...
sent to workshop... told the foreman i wanted orginal parts, especially the headlamp.... he didnt reply me, and i assumed he understand...

after i got back my car only i realised he changed a capalang brand headlamp for me... its not oem BOSCH headlamp.... grrr.... cannot claim anything adi coz insurance all settle jor.... haihz.... my headlight now isnt focused at all... i also dunno how to adjust it la...

DIY smoked headlamp...

aftermarket smoked headlamp cost more than RM200.... sending to workshop also cost around RM100.... so, why not try DIY??... hehe....



went to nearby hardware shop and bought a can spray....



get ready the stuff needed:
- old newspaper
- selotape
- scissors
- paint spray

(ignore the slippers)



wash off dirty stuff around the area u gonna spray.... dirt will cause the paint to peel....





after that, wipe it dry and cover the front part with newspaper.... use selotape to secure it in place.... after securing it, start spraying....





wait for it to dry....





after that, slowly peel off the front part....





tadaa~!!!.... done....







jz in case if u dont know, repeat the steps above for the other side.... hehe...

eyelids anyone??...

use insulation tape (those used to wrap exposed wire)... 1 roll 1 buck.... can do as many eyelids as u like.... muahahaha.... cheap cheap....



took it off adi... coz my blardy ahbeng lalachai neighbour's iswara also got eyelid... dont wanna look the same as his car....
besides, it starts to peel already due to sun and rain....

Kspeed L188 rims....

people say cars with bodykits and STOCK rims vr ahbeng/lalachai wor.... so, the thing i've alwiz wanted has finally arrived... new shoes for my car... hehehe... no more fugly stock rims....

Kspeed L188 rims... 15x6.5jj rims... offset dunno... ahaks...

at first i thought wanna buy the Volk racing TE37 gunmetal color replica rims... size is 15x7jj... since my car lowered already, the 7jj rims cannot fit my rear arch... so, must opt for 6.5jj or less rims lo...



chrome chrome... haha... nice mah.... become ricer boy (lalachai) abit.... :P

last look before changing shoes...



after changing shoes... tyres are continental comfort contact-1 (195/50/R15)...



nice or not??... or still looks ahbeng??....

UR front bar....

next chassis upgrade is UR 3point front bar.... previously i installed a 2point cap ayam bar bought from Brothers... it served me well but i'm worried it will damage my front absorber as it is bolted to the absorber...

so, i sold off that and bought a better one.... this time, it is much more rigid... hehehe....



notice the different between UR and other cap ayam bars??... the side mounting is welded to the chassis... thus, it doesnt interfere with the absorber mounting screw....

URD fender bars....

well... iswara chassis is the weakest among all proton... in fact, can consider one of the weakest chassis car in the world.... if u have seen an iswara involved in an accident, u'll most probably wont notice it is an iswara.... hehe...

ok, so whats the purpose of beefing up the chassis??... what is the benefits of a strong chassis??... well, first of all, u are more likely to survive in an accident... besides that, a strong chassis improves the handling of ur car... when u try to turn ur car, chassis tends to flex a little due to weight distribution from middle to left/right.... chassis flex is a big no no if u want a good handling car... in fact, most car manufacturers now are looking into chassis strength seriously due to the effect in good handling characteristics.... best example is the new subaru impreza... what makes the newer model different compare to the older one is it has a stronger chassis, especially at the front absorber mounting there.... this helps shave off a few seconds of the time lap compare to the older version...


hmm... i've gone too far already.... my car aint impreza or evo also... :P

anyway, as i said above, iswara has a vr vr weak chassis... thus, strengthening it with stabilizer bars is an important step in improving its handling performance...

first, i purchased a pair of 3point URD (Ultra Racing Development) fender bars from HMS for RM140...



installing it is a trouble as many workshop dont wanna install it for me... reasons; they need to open the fenders which is alot of work....

well, at last i got it installed at a UR dealer in malacca... he charged me pretty expensive as well... really chopped me off.... stupid me, should have DIYed it la.... if only i have proper tools....

kimex springs...

yet, another second hand product join my car family.... this time is kimex lowered springs which cost RM130.... brand new would cost me RM350....



during installation, the stupid foreman broke my left OEM absorber mounting screw into half... thus, the nut is jz halfway hanging on to my absorber....
and coz my right OEM absorber was damaged due to my unsuccessful drift attempt, my front pair of absorbers have to go...

surveyed around and found this... Kayaba RS short stroke shocks....




i ordered from SM Mechanical in KL... they sent it to their malacca associate office for me.... total price include shipping is RM320 per pair....


springs and absorber being paired...


current height now is 1.5fingers front and 0fingers rear...
front: kimex springs + kayaba RS shocks
rear: kimex springs + OEM shocks

ride condition.... less bumpy but vr stiff.... not recomended if u are looking for comfort... good for performance and handling...

DIY braided brake hose...

this is a considerable cheap DIY to improve ur braking performance... jz buy some cable ties and tie it around the brake hose like this...



reasons are... as u depress the brake pedal, the brake pump transfer the pressure via brake fluid in the brake hose to the brake calipers to clamp on the brake pads to stop the car.... simple physics we learn during secondary right??... but why still wanna tie it with cable ties??... as u brake suddently or brake heavily, the fluid isnt able to transfer the pressure properly to the calipers... under trumendeous pressure, they will find any weak point to expand... brake hose is a good alternative as it is made of thick rubber hose... after many years of usage, it will tends to expand and become spongy... cable ties are there to stop the expansion and thus, transfer the pressure to the calipers smoothly...

of coz, they arent gonna be as good as ProRS and Goodridge steel braided brake hose which offers lifetime waranty... but ProRS cost RM2XX, Goodridge cost RM5XX, and cable ties cost less than RM5....

K&N air filter....

another second hand product found its way into my car... haha..
this time is a K&N "UFO" air filter... bought it for RM150 at a workshop in malacca... previously used for less than a year and it has been washed and reoiled for me.... hehe.... so, its a good bargain lo... can almost consider as brand new as it has no defect on the filter element....



there is a hose connected to the original airbox... but since i've removed the airbox, this must be added to prevent dirty air being sucked into the engine...
in fact, it is not compulsory to fix a breather there la... some can also sumbat it with a screw...



since the way this filter is mounted on top of the carburettor, it is sucking in hot directly above the engine.... at high speed, there is no problem as cold air is being rushed into the engine bay constantly... but at lower speed, the temperature inside the engine bay can be vr hot... so, must figure a way to feed cold air to the air filter....


[right side CAI route]


[left side CAI route]


transform become this...







u guys might think where the hell my headlights relays went... i've removed it to make way for my right CAI hose through the hole....



i jz simply tie it to the radiator hose using cables... haha....

cold air intake...

many sifoo say cold air can help the car move about better... why arr??... simple theory lo... this is also why u feel ur car more powerful during night time compare to hot sunny afternoon....

cold air are more condensed than hot air... condensed air means got many O2 molecul inside...
while combustion need O2 and fuel to burn, increasing O2 helps the fuel burn more efficiently....

so, i once again dived into the engine bay and made this to my airbox...



the stuff that wrap around the airbox is superlon... some kinda material that insulated the heat so the airbox wont get heated up easily....


as far as i know, older version saga iswara has an extra hose that connect the airbox to the side fender.... mine dont have... so, DIY one lo....



result was noticeable... as it is now sucking in colder air from outside of the car, pickup improved especially during hot afternoon....

midbullet added...

after a week later.... i returned to the workshop and ask what had happened... he said after changing the extractor to a longer one, i need to change the midbox and replace with a highflow midbullet... so, another RM150 fly....



fuel consumption back to normal la... performance does increased... smoother revving from bottom... exhaust gases can escape much more easier adi...

exhaust make over...

ok... after doing up my muffler and felt no improvement at all, i consulted some expert and non-expert about their opinions... they said i should remove this...



and replace with this...



after a few months, start rusting adi... huhuhu.... so i apply 2T oil (motorbike engine oil) on it to stop it from rusting... so far, the extractor still not punctured yet...



went home and found out my car fuel consumption increased drastically...

muffler upgrade...

after getting the car, drove back to malacca.... then, somehow i got involved into car modding interest... so, my first mod was this... first step into lalachai world...



it is a straight flow exhaust... intake is about 2inch while exhaust tip was about 2.5inch... consider a small size exhaust la... previously used by my friend.... he butt itchy wanna change exhaust, so sell to me his one for RM50.... when install, the tauke said better change the piping as well so next time easier to mod... so, piping also changed lo... using a original route 1.75" piping... i guess tahan karat type la... not shiny whatsoever... RM40 only....



since then, it has been with me till now.... inside the fibre all also gone adi.... rev higher also noisy... even idle engine also can hear the noise... haha... dont care first la, jpj and police also didnt flag me down....

my car...

first got it in 2003, it cost about RM28k.... it was previously owned by a housewife for a year... means this car is year 2002 car....
1.3L, in-line 4-cylinder, carburettored, single overhead camshaft...
in short, 4G13p...
bore x stroke: 71 x 82 mm
compression ratio: 9.5:1
valve clearance: intake (0.15mm), exhaust (0.25mm)
maximum power output: 62kW @ 6000rpm
maximum torque output: 109Nm @ 4000 rpm




engine bay of my car.... stock standard & dirty...




model & engine code...